Although braiding is frequently thought of as a protective hairstyle for Black females, its importance goes well beyond aesthetics, it encompasses identity and resistance.
For thousands of years, African culture has been deeply rooted in the ancient art form of braiding. The elaborate designs and patterns are a visual depiction of community, identity, and spirituality that have been handed down through the ages.
Ancient Africans held braiding to be a highly esteemed art form, frequently practiced by elders and spiritual leaders. Braids were employed by several tribes as symbols of social standing, spirituality, and life events. For instance, the Yoruba tribe saved elaborate designs for kings and spiritual leaders, signifying power and distinction, while the Maasai people used braids to symbolise age, marital status, and spiritual development.
The Himba people also braided their hair with beads and cowry shells to symbolise their ancestry and the harmony of nature. Significant life events such as puberty, marriage, and maternity were commemorated by the Zulu tribe using unique braiding patterns. These many braiding customs had something in common, demonstrating the profound cultural and spiritual significance of braiding in African communities.
It is said in a Dope Black CIC article how Black slaves in the United States were subject to regulations on their hygiene and appearance during the time of enslavement. Nonetheless, hair braiding continued to exist as a means of cultural preservation and resistance. Women under slavery would braid each other’s hair in elaborate patterns and designs that not only honoured their culture but also provided a means of communication and escape for fugitives.
Hair braiding remained essential to Black cultures even after slavery. Black people started using braiding as a means of expressing their cultural past, reclaiming their identity, and defying Eurocentric beauty norms. Braids and other natural hairstyles became symbols of Black pride and a refusal to assimilate during the civil rights movement of the 1960s.
In South African schools and corporates, braids have sometimes a site of conflict. Recently at LD Moetanalo High School in Mhluzi, a teacher was suspended for forcibly cutting a student’s braids off in class. While the incident at LD Moetanalo High School is still being investigated, it underscores the ongoing need for schools to foster cultural inclusivity and acceptance, ensuring that students’ cultural expressions, including traditional hairstyles like braids, are valued and respected
For Takalani Netshiavha, a third year LLB student at Wits,” braiding has become a part of my identity as a black woman. When I braid it improves my confidence and self-esteem immensely because I feel more beautiful.”
Anne Tsheshe, a Cameroonian braider in South Africa, finds joy in creating a special bond with her clients, understanding their hair textures and needs. Her favourite part of braiding is “When a young Black girl’s face lights up with uncontainable excitement and joy, beholding the magic my skilled hands have created.”
Braiding has become a lucrative venture for many Black women in South Africa, extending beyond formal salons. Informal braiding services on street corners and markets have created income opportunities and has empowered women while fueling a thriving industry that balances cultural preservation with economic gain.
Even for those who move overseas from Africa, finding a salon where their hair can be braided is essential. Sharon Nawaya said to Wits Vuvuzela: “My move to Texas from South Africa was first daunting because I struggled to find a salon that caters to the texture of my hair and find someone who could do my knotless braids but eventually, I found a salon that caters to African hairstyles.”
For some, braiding is an art and skill worth passing on. “Braiding will always be an integral part of me. When I have a daughter, I will pass on the skill to her, requiring a tender touch and understanding of her hair texture that I have acquired over the years.” says Lesedi Mashinini.
Sisterhood and community bonds are forged and strengthened during the braiding session. Ikageng Molokomme an honours student studying Marketing told Wits Vuvuzela that she views braiding as” a symbol of sisterhood and community. When we braid each other’s hair, we’re not just styling braids we are strengthening bonds and creating memories. “
Designers have been using braids in runway shows and collections, which can be seen in the following Vogue article, and they have been a mainstay in the fashion world in recent years. In the fashion industry, diversity and inclusivity have been aided by this embrace of culture. But it is crucial to recognise the cultural value of braiding and to inform people about its background and significance.
It is imperative that the cultural legacy of braiding be preserved and transmitted to the next generation as we move forward. A few methods to guarantee the art form’s survival are workshops, classes, and online tutorials.
Thus, despite the misunderstanding sometimes, braiding is a sign of solidarity, identity, and cultural legacy for Black women and goes beyond just a hairdo. For millennia, it has served as a tool for self-expression, resistance, and fostering community. It is crucial to recognise and honour the significance of braiding in Black culture as we continue to negotiate the complexity of modern life. By doing this, we can encourage more tolerance, variety, and understanding, preserving braids as a potent representation of Black pride and unification.
FEATURED IMAGE: Female getting braided in the heart of Braamfontein. Photo by: Katlego Mtshali
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